When people think of diamonds, the round cut comes to mind first; but in recent years, especially younger couples looking for a different and more personal ring, have been turning to fancy-cut stones. Oval, marquise, pear, princess or heart... Each shape reflects light differently and gives the finger a different character. In this article we look at each fancy-cut diamond solitaire ring option in turn.

What Is a Fancy Cut?

All diamond shapes other than the classic round brilliant are known as fancy cuts. At the same carat weight, these stones often look larger than a round stone, because their surface area is spread out more.

The Most Popular Fancy Cuts

Oval Cut

It keeps the brilliance of the round cut while making the finger look slimmer and longer. Today it is the most popular shape for solitaire rings after round. The Law Pırlanta collection includes oval solitaires from 0.30 carat to over 1 carat.

Marquise Cut

With two pointed ends and a boat-like shape, the marquise is one of the cuts that looks largest for its carat weight. It pairs very well with vintage and romantic designs.

Pear Cut

Rounded at one end and pointed at the other, the pear shape is both elegant and eye-catching. Wearing it with the point toward the fingertip makes the hand look longer.

Princess Cut

A square cut with sharp corners and a modern feel. Ideal for lovers of minimalist and geometric design.

Heart Cut

The most direct expression of romance. It requires great skill to cut; in a well-cut heart, the two lobes should be symmetrical.

Choosing a Cut by Hand Shape

  • Short, fuller fingers: Elongated shapes such as oval, marquise and pear make the finger look slimmer.
  • Slender, long fingers: Round, princess and heart cuts give a balanced look.
  • Wider hands: Larger oval or pear stones look proportionate.

What to Watch for with Fancy Cuts

Fancy-cut stones can show a "bow-tie effect", a dark shadow across the middle of the stone. Especially with oval and marquise cuts, choose stones where this effect is minimal. The stone's length-to-width ratio also directly affects its look; for oval stones a ratio of 1.30–1.50 usually gives the most balanced appearance.

For marquise and pear stones with pointed tips, choose V-prong settings that protect the points. This detail increases the stone's resistance to knocks.

Pairing with Side Stones

A fancy-cut center stone becomes even more striking when combined with small diamonds on the band. For such designs, also browse the solitaire rings with side stones category. To compare classic round shapes, the solitaire rings page will help too.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does an oval diamond look bigger than a round one?

Yes. At the same carat weight, an oval diamond usually offers a larger surface area thanks to its elongated shape and looks bigger on the finger than a round stone.

Are fancy-cut diamonds cheaper?

At the same carat, color and clarity, fancy-cut stones are often more affordable than round diamonds. This is because the round cut loses more of the rough stone and is in higher demand.

Can marquise and pear stones break?

Diamond is extremely hard, but pointed tips are more sensitive to hard knocks. V-prong settings that protect the tips greatly reduce this risk.

Which fancy cut is the most timeless?

The oval cut stands out as the most timeless fancy cut, because it suits both classic and modern designs.

Custom Design

If you cannot find the shape you want in the collection, you can use Law Pırlanta's custom design service to have your ring made to your choice of stone shape, carat and setting. To see the current designs, browse the fancy-cut solitaire collection.